January Garden Action Items

January Garden Action Items:

As long as you aren’t buried under three feet of snow, there is always a lot of work to do in the garden, so bundle up warmly, put on your wellies and out you go…

1. Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of your favourite shrubs to increase your stock – just think, they will make great Christmas presents for your friends next year! Follow the detailed instructions on the page “Hardwood Cuttings”

2. Houseplant Care:
Water houseplants sparingly – they are not usually growing as vigorously as during the other seasons and will not require as much water. Do try to keep up the humidity around them though, as indoor winter air can be extremely dry. Stand shallow bowls of warm water around your pots, or stand them on a large plant tray full of pebbles, making sure to keep the water level just below the pot bottom so water isn’t wicked up into the pot and overwaters your plants. Give your houseplants as much strong bright light as possible, but keep them away from cold draughts, and radiators. Never leave a plant on a windowsill between the glass and closed curtains or blinds, it is much too cold. Move them away from the windows at night, and back in the morning.

3. Winter Pruning of Trees and Shrubs:
With the tree framework clearly visible during this time of year, it is much easier to see what pruning is necessary, if any. Remove any damaged or diseased branches first, no matter where they are on a plant, as it would be unhealthy to leave them. Then start to remove more selectively any crossing branches, or any that are badly placed, or going where you don’t want them. Try to have an open, clear centre on a tree, with the main branches growing in an attractive shape outwards. This lets in light and air into the centre of the tree and prevents stale, stagnant air which may harbour disease. Be sure to use the right tool for the job – pruners or a sharp knife for small branches only; loppers and saws where necessary to get a clean, sharp cut.

4. Snow Removal
In areas of significant snowfall (or the wet, heavy type of snow we get in milder areas), it is always a good idea to walk around the garden and where possible, remove any snow from vulnerable plants such as specimen trees and shrubs and the tops of hedges. This prevents branches being weighed down and possibly broken or damaged by the weight of the snow.

5. Clean up and Preparation
Thoroughly clean cold frames and cloches not in use so they will be ready for those early seeds and cuttings. Use hot, soapy water and a good scrub brush and wash both inside and outside of all surfaces to remove grime and any overwintering pests.

6. Soil and Bed Preparation
Put down a layer of compost and/or leaf mould over your borders. Lightly work it in with a fork, being extremely careful around the surface crowns of perennials, and emerging shoots of spring bulbs. You don’t have to dig around too much, the rain and worms will all help to mix the layers together through the year.

7. Moving Shrubs.
This is a good time to move any shrub or small tree that is growing in the wrong spot, or one that has outgrown it’s current position. Prepare the new planting hole well, digging some compost into a hole wider and deeper than the rootball of the plant to be moved. Carefully move the plant, taking care to disturb the soil around the roots as little as possible and place in the new spot at the same depth as before. Firm the soil and stake the tree if necessary. Water in well, and mulch with bark or more compost. If the shrub is very large, prune it back a little to help the roots support it.

8. Plant New Shrubs:
Bare root shrubs such as roses can be planted now, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. Follow the directions above for moving shrubs.

9. Bring the Garden Indoors:
Bring pots of spring flowering bulbs indoors now for early blooms. Start to water them a little more and enjoy early snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. Another great thing to do is cut some branches from early spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, cherry, witch hazel, etc to bring indoors. I enjoy doing this even with shrubs that don’t flower, as the fresh new leaves are so beautiful and delicate in themselves. Simply put them in a cool, bright area in a large heavy vase of water, and pretend it is already spring!

10. Order Your Seeds Early
It is time now to order your seed varieties for the upcoming season, especially the new or “hot” varieties for the year, as these sell out very quickly. You should have received a few seed catalogues already, more are probably on their way right now. Always make a point to try at least one or two new ones a year, maybe not the latest and greatest of anything, just something you haven’t got in your garden and always wanted. Check out eSeeds for all your favourite brands, all in one place for convenience and security – we will be adding new varieites non-stop for the next few months, so come back often.

Hardwood Cuttings

January Garden How-To:

Hardwood Cuttings:

Continue to take fully ripe, hardwood cuttings from trees and shrubs to increase your stock or share with friends. This is as easy to do as the soft cuttings most people are more comfortable doing – here’s how:

a) Choose strong side shoots, about as thick as a pencil, from the current year’s growth.

b) Cut with a clean, sharp knife or pruner just below a bud. If the cutting is longer than 1 foot, trim the top as necessary.

c) Remove all but the top leaves in milder areas, all of them in colder areas (if there are any left).

d) Make a narrow, V-shaped trench in a shady, protected spot in the garden, about 6-9 inches deep. Sprinkle an inch of coarse sand in the bottom to help with drainage.

e) Dip the base of each cutting into a rooting hormone powder. Lay them almost vertically on the side of the trench, about 6 inches apart, with the base firmly in the sand.  Fill back the trench, almost burying the cuttings. For cold climates, cover with mulch once the ground is completely frozen.

f) Leave them in place until next fall before transplanting to their final location.

Plants to try propagating this way include roses, dogwoods, honeysuckles, philadelphus, poplar, ribes, willow and many others. Try a few different varieties, as some do take easier than others. Good luck!

Late December Decisions

“Late December Decisions” by ???

As I sit writing this journal entry to close to the dreaded Y2K, I stop and think we may not have to worry about pruning or seed ordering in a few days. If things collapse next week I can be sure of one thing – the bamboo jungle in front of my house is sure to survive…

It’s rather pleasant these days on the Wetcoast, plantwise, that is. The walk up to the video store offers an education in winter flowering plants as well as hedging of which I am in desperate need.

First there is the incredible Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Its name tells all. Florum meaning flowers or flowering and nudi, for naked. The zone 6-10 plant has long leafless stems with beautiful yellow flowers. Paler yellow than forsythia and a great sight in late December and January when there’s not too much happening out there. Placed perfectly on the top of a 10 ft high concrete bank, the flowering stems which can trail up to 12′-15′ hide much of the concrete wall. Winter Jasmine is so vigorous, I don’t feel guilty at all clipping branches throughout the winter for indoor flowers.

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Jasmine nudiflorum flowers on bare stems before the leaves, thus the name ‘nudiflorum’.

You can grow this easily by cuttings without rooting hormones at anytime of year. Plant in most any soil – it will do quite well in poor soils and does not need to be babied with lots of water. Full sun or shade (less flowers in the shade).

Past the Winter Jasmine, there are a few houses with some very choice plantings. In particular, a very handsome Privet hedge. I believe it is California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) hardy in zones 6-10. It must be about 12′ high in a planting about 20′ long and quite narrow in spread, about 5′, from diligent pruning I would expect. It does the job that’s for sure. The hedge is a perfect screen from the neighbors next door, even in the winter because of its semi-evergreen (evergreen this year) status. All Privets grow fast so the only downfall is the maintenance factor. Pruning is essential if you want this specimen as a hedge, as well as a part-shade to sunny location.

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Try alternating holly varieties for a beautiful, festive hedge

Another hedge that nearly got me into a car accident was a brilliant planting of Holly (Ilex crenata). Am I the only one who looks at the hedges and trees more than the road? This hazardous 15′ hedge was very dense with two different varieties planted alternately the whole length of the house. One was a variegated variety with lots of creamy yellow leaf and the other was a very dark lustrous green with berries sprinkled here and there. It was beautiful. Darned if I know the varieties, there was no parking nearby. Ilex is a slow grower in zones 5-7 with some cultivars performing adequately in zone 8, but that’s getting a bit warm for these evergreens.

My ongoing hedge stress…The Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ bushes planted a few months ago are doing fine. They actually have a small raceme of yellow flowers this year but haven’t budged in height yet. Perhaps they will shoot up in the spring. Unfortunately, they are slow growing shrubs. Slow, as in 2-3′ over 3 years!

What to do, what to do. May try some privet, but really have my eyes on a yellow flowering Camellia…Or maybe some just some boring old Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus). Can you tell I’m a Libra?

Soon Time to Start Those Garden Seeds!

by Linda D. Harris, Horticulturist, Ferry-Morse Seed Company

Winter covers the ground everywhere north of Zone 8. Right now your next garden is still a dream. Begin now to make the dream real.

Start planning on paper. Then begin thinking about which seeds to start for the next garden’s flowers, herbs and vegetables indoors. Growing plants from seed is infinitely more satisfying than setting out plants you’ve purchased. Try it and see if you don’t agree.

Organize Your Supplies

You’ll need a plant light or a large, south-facing window; seed-starting pots and trays; seed-starting medium; plastic labels; a pencil or dibble; and a mister bottle. These are the basics. You can also get fancy with a light timer, a copper watering can with a rose attachment, wrought-iron stands, humidifiers, soil thermometers, and the like. But those are optional.

Light

I’ve had the best seedling results with a normal fluorescent shop light hung from chains in the basement. Or use a tabletop plant light with cool-white fluorescent tubes.The critical thing is to provide light close to the tops of the plants. By this, I mean 6 to 8 inches above the top leaves. As plants grow, lights have to move up, too. The other requirement is to leave the lights on 12 to 18 hours per day, then off at night. This simulates nature’s “day” and produces the best germination and early growth.

Later I use my shop lights to grow later-started seedlings, and all year round I grow blooming and green plants underneath. I always have a “green spot” to cheer my eye and my soul.

If you are using a large, south-facing window, get the plants right IN the window, as close as possible to the glass, and turn them daily. Plants grown with nature’s light may dry out faster and have the disadvantage of occasionally being a little spindly.

Seed-Starting Medium

Please use a sterile seed starting medium, available in bags so marked, for starting your seeds. Starting with sterile medium assures you of the best environment for seedlings. Also use new plastic or peat pots or trays. Please don’t use ones from before; there could be diseases present.

Temperature

To germinate, seeds need soil which is moist and ranging between 65 to 70 degrees F. Some like it warmer. This is the SOIL temperature I’m talking about. I like to put my seed trays up on the refrigerator until I see the first seedling popping through. This “bottom heat” is especially good for impatiens and pepper seeds.Once the seeds have germinated and they are under the lights, the AIR temperature should be 70 to 75 degrees F. during the day or cooler, and 60 to 65 degrees F. at night. This fluctuating temperature is very important to plant growth. First, it mimics nature. During the day when the lights are on, the small plants are producing food and new cells. The fluorescent light keeps them from getting too warm. When air temperatures are too high, the growth will be too fast, which makes the cell walls thinner and the plants weak. That’s why they often flop over and cause your heart to despair. But with cooler night temperatures and a cycle of dark, the plants have a normal rest cycle which strengthens their cell growth.

My house naturally fluctuates in temperature during the winter, as I’m sure yours does. At night, the thermostat is turned lower for the comfort of the humans and pets, and is perfect for plants as well.

Water

The key to watering seedlings is “evenly moist”. That means an equal amount of water all the way through the medium.Some people like to water from the bottom when plants are very small, allowing pots or trays to soak up water for an hour or so, then taking the water source away.You can also water from the top, using a very gentle stream. The best time to water is when the surface of the medium begins to lighten (indicating it is beginning to dry out). Water during the daylight cycle so leaves can dry off well before dark sets in. This will help prevent mildew problems.

Remember to check your seedlings daily and don’t let them dry out. But don’t let them stay too wet, either. When plants are very small, they don’t use as much water as they will later when their roots develop and grow.

Flowers to Start Indoors

Some annual flowers need a headstart indoors because they are either slow to germinate or slow-growing to the transplant stage.These annual seeds do best if started indoors: coleus, impatiens, flowering kale, lobelia, melampodium, pansy, petunia, pinks, verbena, and vinca (periwinkle).

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Petunias, coleus, verbena, pansies

Likewise some perennials, if started early indoors, may bloom the first year in the garden. Another benefit of starting some perennials indoors is to set out a sturdy, started plant for best growth and performance.

Perennial seeds for indoor starting include columbine, delphinium, English daisy, moss verbena, ornamental fountain grass, pinks, salvia, veronica and viola.

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Vegetables to Start Indoors

Eggplant, onion, and pepper seeds need some time (10 to 12 weeks) to develop indoors, and that’s why I’ve listed them first. Tomatoes also need a headstart, but please don’t start them until about March. Only 6 to 8 weeks are required for tomato plants growing indoors. Many people get impatient and start tomatoes too early, ending up with large, floppy, hungry plants which may not transplant as well as smaller ones do.

Herbs to Start Indoors

These herb seeds are good candidates for a bit of a headstart: catmint, catnip, clary, horehound, lavender, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.Soak parsley seed in room-temperature water for several hours before planting to give it a little boost.

Choosing Varieties

There are so many varieties of flowers and vegetables to choose from, it can be confusing. Here are some guidelines to refer to before you choose. Flowers: You’ll want to think about where you’ll be planting them as you select the variety. Check the height of the plant. For massed plantings, you may want to grow a single color for greatest impact. For vegetables, check the days to maturity/harvest. Some varieties are earlier than others and this can be an important factor in what you grow for food. And if a variety has been deemed an “All-America Winner” or a “Fleuroselect Winner”, you know already that it will perform well for you because it has been tested extensively and judged to be superior.

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Ferry Morse Seed Company is an eSeeds Business Partner.

Pruning Houseplants

“Pruning Houseplants” by David Tarrant

January is a good time to prune certain houseplants, particularly such vigorous growers as hibiscus and bougainvillea.

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Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus) is a beautiful and easy houseplant.

With the many indoor cultivars of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, if they are in a well-lit sunny window, they continue to send out the odd blossom even at this time of the year making the decision to prune a difficult task. However, the shrubby stems should be pruned back by at least two thirds by the end of the month. If it is a standard on a single stem, just the top bushy branches should be pruned. If you have to prune back into leafless branches, always prune directly above an outward facing dormant bud (as for roses outdoors).

Bougainvillea glabra and its many cultivars are often grown as houseplants which are put outside for the summer and brought indoors for the winter months, where they often lose most of their leaves. It is a rambunctious, thorny vine in nature and tends to form quite a dense mass which should also be pruned and thinned out this month. With most bougainvilleas, there are definite main branches which should be left unpruned; however, all the side shoots coming from them should be pruned back to within a couple of leaf buds from the main stem.

Pruning your woody houseplants at this time of year will encourage plenty of healthy new growth during the next six to eight weeks leading to great blooms later in the year.

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Bougainvillea with a collection of other houseplants makes a great window display. Shown here are also a Calamondin orange (Citrofortunella mitis ‘Varieta’) at left; Crimson Bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) lower centre with the red flowers; and Rosette succulent (Aeonium arboraum ‘Atropurpureum’) at right.

Gardening in the Future

“Gardening in the Future” by Mala Gunadasa-Rohling

The last month of the Millenium is undoubtedly a time for reflections, both forwards and backwards, for everybody, but I don’t think I’m alone in thinking that gardeners are more aware than others of the passing seasons and years. We keep journals of what we do each season, what we need to do or want to try next year. The journal may be carefully written in a beautiful book, with pressed flowers illustrating the notes, or more likely, a series of quick, often random notes jotted down in a daytimer (oh, to be an elegant Edwardian lady with time to keep one of the former, rather than a harried and super busy working mother with the latter…). Sometimes, probably most times, there is no physical record at all, it is kept in our minds. Nonetheless, all these past experiences and dreams will be carried into the next millenium to impact the gardens of the future.

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Who knows what these gardens will look like? What trends and fashions will shape them? Will we still be having the pastel colours vs. “hot” ones debate? Will ornamental grasses still be “in” or will someone decide they are finished and say we must all have a lemon tree? Formal gardens, cottage gardens, herbs, wildflowers, traditional perennial beds, modern mixed borders, gravel gardens, etc., etc. – these have all been done, and will continue to be created, but what’s coming up in the world of gardening and horticulture that we can barely imagine? I hope there will be more discoveries like that of the phytoremediation qualities of waterlilies that can be used to clean polluted waters. Can scientists find a cure for cancer or AIDs in the rainforests, or will an old gardener discover that a familiar annual cures the common cold? Maybe we will have salt-water tolerant, floating plants that will feed the world? Will this next century see the first zero-gravity garden? A vegetable plot on the moon? Probably, and much more!! Imagine the size of the pumpkins…

Back here on Earth today, I’m really looking forward to this Christmas Season and New Years celebrations. Nothing grand and fancy in a downtown hotel for me thank you, I’d rather spend this special time at home with my family and close friends. Maybe we can all take a walk around the garden, and dream a little of the future.

Best wishes to you and your family.

Horticulture News Around the World:

BELGIUM: Sick Plants…

Everyone knows that plants can be infected with viruses, but no one realised, until now, that they develop a fever at the onset of infection. Researchers at the University of Ghent, Belgium, have proven that tobacco plants with mosaic virus develop higher temperatures on the parts of their leaves that are under attack eight hours before the first visible symptoms appear. The discovery will help researchers to diagnose viral problems sooner, and may assist in the all-important work of finding virus-resistant varieites.

ISRAEL: Healthy Plants…

watlily.jpg (4826 bytes)The process of phytoremediation – a process by which plants absorb toxins and lock them up in their cells, thus reducing pollution – has recently been given a more attractive image. Formerly, plants used for such purposes looked uninteresting, or plain ugly, drab relatives of the cabbage, or that most uninspiring of houseplants, Chlorophytum. But it has now been discovered that water lilies are masters of phytoremediation. In Israel, they have been shown to absorb metal pollution to a maximum of 16% of their dry weight, trapping it in plant proteins called phytochelatins. The researchers who have identified the phytochelatin-producing gene propose to modify the genes of other plants with it, thus widening the scope for cleaning up contaminated sites. Could this be a politically attractive application of GM technology?

 

ENGLAND: Amazing Plants – 26 years!!

After a number of forestry trials, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is offering a range of different species of Christmas trees this year both at Kew Gardens and Wakehurst Place, the estate managed by Kew in west Sussex.

“Needlefast” Nordman fir (Abies nordmanniana) In recent years, this species has become increasingly popular due to its long needle retention after cutting. On mature trees needles can remain alive for 26 years. It is native to north-eastern Turkey and the adjacent Caucasus Mountains of Georgia, hence its other common name of Caucasian fir.

Gardeners In The News: Mistletoe grower Neil Harris

“Neil Harris, a mistletoe grower in England, is full of Christmas cheer at the thought of a big demand for his crop this year, due to a ban on imported French plants”

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AUCTIONEERS holding the first mistletoe sale of the year are expecting fierce competition today for restricted native stocks in time for Christmas amid an unofficial boycott of French mistletoe.

The first of three sales at Tenbury Wells, Herefordshire, the centre of the British mistletoe industry, is expected to see an influx of buyers from all over Britain after Tesco cancelled a £2 million order from France and other supermarkets hinted that they might follow.

More than 900 piles of mistletoe and holly and 1000 wreaths go under the hammer in the sale which the auctioneers, Russell Baldwin and Bright, said would let them feel the water for the two main sales at the beginning of next month.

Much of it has been supplied by travelling people or gypsies who, for generations, have harvested it with farmers’ consent.

Hugh Robinson, a spokesman for the auctioneers, said buyers were expected from all over Britain, including the Black Country, Suffolk, Liverpool and London.

“As a result of the shortage created by the import ban by some supermarkets, we expect demand to be much higher than previous years.”

Jonathan Briggs, an ecologist with British Waterways and co-ordinator of the first British survey into the plant for 30 years, said Britain relied on imports to stop native stocks being overharvested although mistletoe was now being grown in more areas of Britain than ever.

If the parasitic plant is harvested carefully, it can be removed without killing the host tress, which include apple, lime, willow and poplar. However, that takes expertise and taking too much mistletoe can affect the crop the following year.

Article and top photo from The Times, November 30, 1999

Mistletoe – Botany and Legend of a Christmas Favourite

(A) First, the myths and legends:

The common name of the plant is derived from the ancient belief that mistletoe was propagated from bird droppings. This belief was related to the then-accepted principle that life could spring spontaneously from dung. It was observed in ancient times that mistletoe would often appear on a branch or twig where birds had left droppings. “Mistel” is the Anglo-Saxon word for “dung,” and “tan” is the word for “twig”. So, mistletoe means “dung-on-a-twig”.

gui.gif (36246 bytes)From the earliest times mistletoe has been one of the most magical, mysterious, and sacred plants of European folklore. It was considered a bestower of life and fertility; a protection against poison; and an aphrodisiac.

The mistletoe of the sacred oak was especially sacred to the ancient Celtic Druids. On the sixth night of the moon white-robed Druid priests would cut the oak mistletoe with a golden sickle. Two white bulls would be sacrificed amid prayers that the recipients of the mistletoe would prosper.

Later, the ritual of cutting the mistletoe from the oak came symbolize the emasculation of the old King by his successor. Mistletoe was long regarded as both a sexual symbol and the “soul” of the oak. It was gathered at both mid-summer and winter solstices, and the custom of using mistletoe to decorate houses at Christmas is a survival of the Druid and other pre-Christian traditions. (Mistletoe is still ceremonially plucked on mid-summer eve in some Celtic and Scandinavian countries.)

In the Middle Ages and later, branches of mistletoe were hung from ceilings to ward off evil spirits. In Europe they were placed over house and stable doors to prevent the entrance of witches. It was also believed that the oak mistletoe could extinguish fire. This was associated with an earlier belief that the mistletoe itself could come to the tree during a flash of lightning.

In parts of England and Wales farmers would give the Christmas bunch of mistletoe to the first cow that calved in the New Year. This was thought to bring good luck to the entire herd.

Kissing under the mistletoe is first found associated with the Greek festival of Saturnalia and later with primitive marriage rites. Mistletoe was believed to have the power of bestowing fertility, and the dung from which the mistletoe was thought to arise was also said to have “life-giving” power.

In Scandinavia, mistletoe was considered a plant of peace, under which enemies could declare a truce or warring spouses kiss and make-up.

In some parts of England the Christmas mistletoe is burned on the twelfth night lest all the boys and girls who have kissed under it never marry.

And for those who wish to observe the correct etiquette: a man should pluck a berry when he kisses a woman under the mistletoe, and when the last berry is gone, there should be no more kissing!

 

(B) Now the Scientific Facts: Warning – do not read this section if you are a romantic!

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The mistletoe of literature (Viscum album) is distributed throughout the warmer parts of the Old World. It is most abundant on apple trees, poplars, willows, lindens, and hawthorns. Its North American counterpart ( Phoradendron serotinum) is parasitic on many species of deciduous trees of eastern North America. Another eastern North American species, the dwarf mistletoe ( Arceuthobium pusillum), is parasitic primarily on coniferous trees. The scientific name of the mistletoe family is Loranthaceae, which consists of about 20 genera.

Some people have sentimental whims about the myths of mistletoe, but this evergreen, parasitic plant is a common pest that reduces the vigor and even threatens the survival of many shade trees. Hosts of broadleaf mistletoe (Phoradendron macrophyllum ) include ash, alder, birch, box elder, cottonwood, locust, silver maple, and walnut. Another species of broadleaf mistletoe in California, P. villosum, infests only oaks. Dwarf mistletoes (Arceuthobium spp.) infest pines, firs, and other conifers in forests, but are rarely a problem in landscape plantings.

IDENTIFICATION:
Leafy mistletoes have green stems with thick leaves that are nearly oval in shape. Plants often develop a roundish form up to 2 feet or more in diameter. The small, sticky, whitish berries are produced from October to December. Evergreen clumps of mistletoe are readily observed on decidous trees in winter when leaves are off the trees.

LIFE CYCLE AND BIOLOGY:
Mistletoe plants are either female (produce berries) or male (produce only pollen). The berries of the female plant are small, sticky, and whitish; they are very attractive to robins and other birds. The birds feed on and digest the pulp of the berries, excreting the living seeds that stick tightly to any branches on which they land. In most cases, the initial infestation occurs on larger or older trees because birds prefer to perch in the tops of taller trees. A heavy buildup of mistletoe often occurs within an infested tree because birds are attracted to the berries, and may spend a good deal of time feeding on them. In addition, seeds may fall from mistletoe plants in the upper part of the tree, creating new infestations on the lower branches. The rapidity with which mistletoe spreads is directly related to the proximity and severity of established infestations, and newly planted trees can be quickly infested if they are growing near old, heavily infested trees.

After the mistletoe seed germinates, it grows through the bark and into the tree’s water-conducting tissues, where rootlike structures called haustoria develop. The haustoria gradually extend up and down within the branch as the mistletoe grows. Initially, the parasitic plant grows slowly; it may take years before the plant blooms and produces seed. Old, mature mistletoe plants may be several feet in diameter, and on some host species, large swollen areas develop on the infected branches where the mistletoe penetrates. If the visible portion of the mistletoe is removed, new plants often resprout from the haustoria.

DAMAGE:
Broadleaf mistletoe absorbs both water and mineral nutrients from its host trees. Healthy trees can tolerate a few mistletoe branch infections, but individual branches may be weakened or sometimes killed. Heavily infested trees may be reduced in vigor, stunted, or even killed, especially if they are stressed by other problems such as drought or disease.

MANAGEMENT:
In newly developed areas or in older established areas where trees are being replaced, the ideal method of controlling or preventing mistletoe is to plant trees believed to be resistant or moderately resistant to mistletoe. Avoid trees like Modesto ash, known to be especially susceptible to mistletoe infestation. Where many new trees are being planted, control mistletoe in any surrounding infected trees to reduce the infection of new trees.

For treatment of existing trees it is important to remove mistletoe before it produces seed and spreads to other limbs or trees. Mechanical control through pruning is the most effective method for removal. Growth regulators provide a degree of temporary control but repeated applications are required. Severely infested trees should be removed and replaced with less susceptible species to protect surrounding trees.

Mechanical Control:
The most effective way to control mistletoe and prevent its spread is to prune out infected branches, if possible, as soon as the parasite appears. Using thinning-type pruning cuts, remove infected branches at their point of origin or back to large lateral branches. Infected branches need to be cut at least one foot below the point of mistletoe attachment in order to completely remove embedded haustoria. Done properly, limb removal for mistletoe control can maintain or even improve tree structure. Severe heading (topping) is often used to remove heavy tree infestations; however, such pruning weakens a tree’s structure, and destroys its natural form. In some cases it is best to remove severely infested trees entirely because they are usually a source of mistletoe seed.

Mistletoes infecting a major branch or the trunk where it cannot be pruned may be controlled by cutting off the mistletoe flush with the limb or trunk. Then wrap the area with a few layers of wide, black polyethylene to exclude light. Use twine or tape to secure the plastic to the limb, but do not wrap it too tightly or the branch may be damaged. Broadleaf mistletoe requires light and will die within a couple of years without it. It may be necessary to repeat this treatment, especially if the wrapping becomes detached or if the mistletoe does not die. In some tree species callus tissue will form under the plastic, further weakening the limb. Additional problems with wrapping are the difficulty of wrapping to exclude light, heat damage to the limb, and providing a refuge for insects such as earwigs.

Simply cutting the mistletoe out of an infested tree each winter, even without wrapping, is better than doing nothing at all. Even though the parasite will grow back, its spread is reduced because broadleaf mistletoe must be several years old before it can bloom and produce seed.

Chemical Control:
The plant growth regulator ethephon (Monterey Florel brand) may be used as directed by the label to control mistletoe in dormant host trees. To be effective, the spray must thoroughly wet the mistletoe foliage. By treating when trees are dormant, the tree foliage will not get in the way of the treatment and the mistletoe clumps are more visible than when leaves are on the tree. Spraying provides only temporary control, especially on well-established infestations, by causing some of the mistletoe plant to fall off. The mistletoe will soon regrow at the same point, requiring retreatment.

Resistant Species:
Some tree species appear resistant to broadleaf mistletoe. Bradford flowering pear, Chinese pistache, crape myrtle, eucalyptus, ginkgo, golden rain tree, liquidambar, persimmon, sycamore, and conifers such as redwood and cedar are rarely infested. These or other resistant species should be considered when planting in infested areas, or when replacing infested trees.

December

“December” by David Tarrant

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December brings us the shortest day of the year in the northern hemisphere. Its passing kindles excitement of looking forward to longer days and a new gardening season ahead. In ancient times, plants with winter interest were always used as decorations in celebrations marking passing from darkness into light.

hellebore.jpg (10157 bytes) At the UBC Botanical Garden a plant which always shows its first blooms by late December is Helleborus foetidus (photo left), with fresh-looking, apple-gren flowers. A great plant for growing in dry dappled shade, a true harbinger of the bountiful growing season ahead.

The University of British Columbia Botanical Garden will once again be selling handmade wreaths and arrangements to grace your home this holiday season. This is a traditional fundraising activity for many gardens, schools, hospitals, and other organisations around the world, where hard-working volunteers create beautiful items from locally grown produce. Please support their efforts by purchasing these items as gifts for your friends, everyone benefits!

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cgicon-home.gif (4814 bytes)For several years, David has spent his holidays resting and relaxing in the tropical paradise of Hawaii. This year we are lucky enough to join David and the Canadian Gardener crew on location in Hawaii for two glorious shows of tropical flowers and sunshine to air on December 24/26 and December 31/Jan 02. Check your local CBC listings or visit the Canadian Gardener webpage for details later this month.